In short, your idea is a bad design choice. I have only encountered a couple of these, but that is how I will do it, if it comes up again. Whatever the designer/customer wants is the name of the game.Ĭontributor J, that makes a lot of sense. We also run a lot of solid slab drawer faces. The stiles match the doors, and the end cuts on the panels line up vertically with the doors below. If the customer wants a raised panel 5-piece drawer face, then the rails go down to 1-3/4" and when the panels get raised, we run the long edges spaced farther away from the cutter - just enough to maintain at least a 1" tall center flat portion horizontally in the drawer face. I'm not a fan of the single tall rail because of wood movement issues. Any other suggestions? Re-design so the panel is big enough? What do people do when they encounter panels too narrow to raise? I have just made a solid rail from top to bottom. To me, neither of the drawings look good. The drawing is a 30" wide vanity, 3 1/2" toe-kick.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size image Using 3" stiles and rails, drawer fronts would have a 2" center panel on 36"h cab, and 1 1/2" center panel on 30"h cab. I think it would be a mistake to make door stiles and rails at 1 1/2".ĭepends on how wide the vanity is, but here it is below to scale. It is regularly done that way around here (NE Texas). If you ever want to consider making a design change, try using 2 1/2" stiles and rails for doors and 2 1/2" stiles with 1 1/2" rails for drawer heads. Yes, you can get away with using 3" stiles and rails - it will look good. I am puzzled why anyone suggest using solid drawer faces. If it's your company's design theme or you're matching a design theme, be consistent otherwise, I agree that you should consider solid drawer fronts. I don't know if that is the best way to do it, but it made sense at the time.Īnother vote for matching width stiles and narrower rails on the drawers. On one that was too narrow for a panel, 3.5" or so, I still build it with 3" stiles and a 3.5" rail, so it matches. Drawer rails I use 1.75" or sometimes 1.5" if the panel is really narrow. Also narrower stiles may cause some problem in mounting to drawer box if you need to screw into the stile. Drawer fronts have the same width stiles as the doors and the rails are narrower to give a little more panel. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Can I get away with using a 3" stile and rail for my two doors or is this bad design? I plan on using 1 1/2" wide stile and rail for all the drawers. I am beginning to construct the drawer boxes and drawer faces. This is a key differentiator from hollow core doors, where the skin or mould is literally glued together with only spacers in between each skin.I have built the box of a vanity cabinet and have a 1 1/2" face frame on. In addition to the strength of the dowel construction, glue is also applied in the dowel bore for an even stronger bond. Same function as the top rail, except this horizontal rail sits at the bottom of a door to connect the vertical stiles on each side and panel/s above.ĭowels are used for making strong and tight joints where rails meet the stiles for ultimate strength and durability. Panel designs are customizable, so you can still achieve the look you want without compromising on quality. Panels can be raised or flat, and are set into the frames of a door. These are the vertical components on each side of the door that join the rails with dowels. This is a horizontal rail that is situated between the vertical stiles at the same height as the lockset for hardware. Intermediate rails are not used in hollow core or solid core construction, which is another reason wood stile and rail doors are much sturdier than moulded and flush door options. These are rails built in between the top and bottom rails, including the lock rail. This is the horizontal rail that is the top frame of the door and connects the stiles on each side and panel/s below.
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